Tuesday, November 13, 2007

Lost in Indonesia!

Idea of traveling always conjures animation and unparalleled zeal – which is what prospective 2 days at Bintan Island, Indonesia managed. But what lay ahead of me – was only to be experienced to be believed.

From Wikipedia ‘Bintan is the largest of 3,200 islands in the Riau Archipelago, and is located less than 40 kilometers from Singapore. Bintan has tropical forest and beautiful white beaches’. On that note Indonesia has 17,508 islands - on last count!!

Sesh(Fellow SP Jainiite),Karthik(Sesh’s Cousin) and myself backpacked, after not much deliberations over the fate of travel, were on our way to Bintan! 9 AM(10th November 2007) ferry(Aria Bupala) from Tanah Merah ferry terminal headed towards Bintan – Singapore is gateway to the ASEAN countries with easy accessibility to most of its neighbours. 9 AM and we reach Bintan( Shocked? Bintan is one hour behind Singapore).

We were ushered in to this resort island - Northern portion of Bintan – and find ourselves in Nirvana resorts being greeted by young Indonesians performing a ritual dance – with wide innocent beams on their countenance entrenched in their occupation and celebrating our arrival in all gung ho. After figuring out our way through the resort (more on the resort to come later) – we decide to head for Tanjung Pinang(Capital of the Island) – southern portion of Bintan.

For the uninitiated- Singapore – for the betterment of Indonesia ( as well as itself) helps manage and maintain these resort( a couple of dozen of the them on the northern shore of Bintan offering tourist a world full of water sports,beaches and golf courses) – whereas the rest of the island is what you would typify to come under Indonesia. En route to Tanjong Pinang we serpentined our way through winding roads bedecked on both sides by green shrubbery and stark red soil(rich in Bauxite as per our driver –Rudi). These were dotted by small villages – strikingly desolate and deprived of the most basic necessities. Finally , we hit Tanjung Pinang - only to be hit by pangs of hunger.

Hold on! Three TamBrams in the middle of Indonesia? Thankfully – Chinese Buddhist – form a sizeable population of Bintan and make the lives of similar such vegetarians as us less thorny. Post a 7000 Rupiah lunch – our sojourn continued. 7000 Rupiah??? 1 SGD is approximately 6300 Rupiah. 50 SGD fetched us 3 Lakh 15 Thousand Rupiahs! Amusement coupled with distress clouded Karthik’s face as he held out the notes. The country hit hard by the 1997 Asian Crisis; red tap-ism and political turmoil hitting this oil producing economy.


A quick walk around the Tanjung(Bay in Bahasa) followed by boat trip along the fishermen colony(houses in the creek supported on bamboos) and heading towards a Chinese(Buddhist) temple at Senggarang. Stench wafted from the waters that our doddering boat managed to cut as we were flummoxed at the state of the bamboos that supported the hutments. At the Chinese Temple, history somehow reeked – although age and dilapidation seemed to have creeped on faster.

Post a saunter around the market area at Tanjung Pinang – we headed for Pasar Oleh Oleh(Pasar means Market Place in Bahasa and Oleh means Souverneir) – haven for tourists from Singapore for tax free goods shall entice their spendthrift(ing) urges.


Back in the resort – we strolled by beach that rimmed it – white sands and lazy waves brushing against foggy and misty clouds at the horizon – it was blissful and unaware of the world outside. As a hammock titillated between two coconut trees in the cool breeze ( climate here soothes – is mostly cloudy and averages 25 degree celcius though out the year).

A reassuring session at the Jacuzzi and a few saunters later bed beckoned.


I was up next day – 11th November - by 7 AM clicking away at the white sands and the coconut trees. The resort had one of those coconut trees – which you always think are creation of the movies - tilted at such an obtuse angle that it almost touched the sea floor ( By design I presume for it was supported on a concrete structure).

Breakfast beckoned – double omelet, bread toasts, salads, muffins, coffee and loads of pineapple. If bliss conjure itself in Indonesia – it is through those juicy pineapples that this country produces in humongous quantities. One hour of breakfast and soul levitated to unprecedented heights. Beach Volleyball and some more photographic experimentations later – it was time to get the first ferry back – Singapore.

Struggle ensued in pursuance of tickets at the ferry terminal – but we managed! Indera Bupala cruised us across the South China Sea and post a Mysore Masala Dosa at Komala’s – I was where I began , with memories I shall carry – forever.

8 comments:

Anonymous said...

tell me more..tell me more...and put up some more pics!!!!!!!! pleeeeeeeeease

Unknown said...

now i can give gassss abt indonesia,..just that i wud have to forge that stamp on it! :) hehehe..

Heman - What a name! I know, but let it be said...

Excellent Travelogue EJ... Brought back memories of my own trip to Batam early this year. And guess it will sure inspire me to write about my experiences here in The Land of Smiles :)

Anonymous said...

Easu-Mesu ... 'Backpacking' doesnt mean staying in a luxurious resourt --- it means CAMPING .. and low budget ... hehehehehe ...
but good description - felt like i was there.
- Guess Who (1000 Rupaiah for doing so)

Easwar Subramanian said...

Thank You 'Anonymous' for the generous offer...

So who are you?

Let me take a wild guess...Pinks aka Jasma?

Easwar Subramanian said...

Ok its either Chirag or Jasma...

Anusha Ramanathan said...

A lovely travelogue that informs and entertains, lures you into exciting shores and yet comforts you with warmth. Typically you.

would love to hear nad see more of this trip.

R!tesh said...

as heman said, it did indeed bring back... good old memories !! request... few more pics..r needed :) yeah one more thing..!!
i did 'pakau' a few locals...n came to surprise that "tradition in indonesia calls for a home to have as many number of doors,
as many number of wives the men (of the house) has" !!!

I always strike right cords !! he hee... !!